Hidden Guianas without Tour Leader – Unescorted

Day 1: Arrival in Georgetown

Pickup and transfer from Cheddi Jagan International Airport to Georgetown and check in at the historic old world charm Cara Lodge property. No meals or guided services today.

🛏️ Overnight: Cara Lodge, Georgetown or similar
🍽️ Meals: None

📍 Cara Lodge, Georgetown
Cara Lodge was built in the 1840s. It has a long and romantic history and was the home of the first Lord Mayor of Georgetown. Over the years, the property has been visited by many dignitaries including King Edward VIll who stayed at the house in 1923. Other dignitaries have included President Jimmy Carter, HRH King Charles III and Mick Jagger. This magnificent wooden colonial home turned hotel offers the tradition and nostalgia of a bygone era.

📍 Georgetown
Located on the coast, Georgetown is Guyana’s largest city and has a distinctly Caribbean feel to it, interspersed with its colonial British, French and Dutch heritage. The city was founded in the 18th century but did not become the capital until it was captured by the French in 1782, only to fall into British hands thirty years later. It owes its existence to the fertility of its soil, early settlers found this to be an ideal region for establishing plantations, and reclaimed what had been floodplains through the building of dykes and canals. Georgetown’s streets are laid out in a grid pattern and contain many interesting historic buildings dating back to the 19th century, as well as some colourful markets.

Day 2: Georgetown and Kaieteur Falls

Early this morning before dawn for early risers, we have an optional tour to visit the Botanical Gardens where, if we are lucky, we may observe the spectacular Blood-coloured Woodpecker. This colourful Veniliornis is found only in the Guianas and even there almost wholly limited to the narrow coastal plain. The gardens host Snail Kite, Gray Hawk, Pearl Kite, Carib Grackle, Red-bellied and Red-shouldered Macaws and the rare festive parrots. We will walk on trails in the back of the gardens and may see Yellow-chinned Spinetail, Black-crested Antshrike, Silver-beaked Tanager, Buff-breasted Wren, Golden-spangled Piculet and Ashy-headed Greenlet. You may even want to take a break from birding to feed some manatees in one of the nearby ponds. Return to the hotel for breakfast.

Around noon we take a scheduled flight over the Demerara and Essequibo Rivers and hundreds of miles of unbroken tropical rainforest to land at Kaieteur Falls, the world’s highest free-falling waterfall. Kaieteur supports a unique micro environment with Tank Bromeliads, the largest in the world, in which the tiny Golden frog spends its entire life and the rarely seen Guiana Cock-of-the-rock nesting close by. The lucky visitor may also see the famous flights of the Kaieteur Swifts or Makonaima Birds which nest under the vast shelf of rock carved over millions of years by the black water of the Potaro River. After spending time on the trails, staring in wonder from the various vantage points, out across this magnificent force of nature, we return by aircraft to Georgetown.

For those that wish to sample some of the lively nightlife of Georgetown, please enquire about the optional Sewall experience.

🛏️ Overnight: Cara Lodge, Georgetown or similar
🍽️ Meals: Breakfast, Snack at Kaieteur

Notes: On occasion the visit to Kaieteur Falls may need to be re-scheduled due to unfavourable weather conditions or other uncontrollable extenuating circumstances. Note you are required on arrival at the airstrip at Kaieteur to be able to walk to various viewpoints of the falls. The walking is generally straightforward but there is some uneven ground. The authorities have restricted travellers going right up to the edge of the drop off for obvious safety reasons.

📍 Kaieteur Falls
Kaieteur Falls is a spectacular site, five times higher than Niagara Falls, and one of the most powerful waterfalls in the world. First seen by Europeans in 1870 it was known to indigenous people before this. There are no other falls in the world with the magnitude of the sheer drop existing at Kaieteur. Amerindian legend of the Patamona tribe has it that Kai, one of the tribe’s chiefs (after whom the falls is named), committed self-sacrifice by canoeing himself over the falls. It was believed this would encourage the Great Spirit Makonaima to save the tribe from being destroyed by the savage Caribishi.

Day 3: Georgetown – Iwokrama (Domestic Flight) – Atta Rainforest Lodge

Fly over Guyana’s rainforest to land at Fair View Airstrip, from where we transfer to Iwokrama, an incredible region of rainforest with a breath-taking diversity of species. Take a boat journey, looking for birds along the way, for the hike to Turtle Mountain, where we walk to the summit, approximately 2 hours, for spectacular views over the forest canopy. The area is home to Red Howler Monkeys, Black Spider Monkeys, and five different eagles. For those who feel that the walk may be too strenuous an alternative boat ride can be taken to Stanley Lake to search for Giant River Otters and Black Caiman.

Return to Iwokrama River Lodge for lunch after which we travel along one of the best trails for seeing Jaguar. Sightings cannot be guaranteed but if you are very lucky you may see one of Guyana’s most elusive creatures. Along the road we will look out for a myriad of bird species that frequent the edge of the forest. The road is the only north to south access in Guyana and links the country to Brazil, but there is very little traffic and wildlife such as Agouti, Tayra, Puma, Tapir and Black Curassow are sometimes spotted.

We continue to the Iwokrama Canopy Walkway, 30 metres above the ground, for a different perspective of the forest. We will also spend time exploring the clearing around Atta Lodge, where you will have an excellent chance of spotting the Crimson Fruit Crow and Black Curassow.

🛏️ Overnight: Atta Rainforest Lodge, Iwokrama Forest or similar
🍽️ Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Note: Please read the notes on luggage under “Preparing for your Tour”.

📍 Iwokrama
Iwokrama Forest covers nearly a million acres and is home to a bewildering array of different species. Its name means ‘place of refuge’ in the language of the Makushi Amerindians, who retreated here to avoid the predations of the slave trade. Iwokrama was established as a centre for the study of the rainforest and has been set aside to promote sustainable tourism within the region. Wildlife here includes Jaguar, Caiman, Howler and Spider Monkeys, rodents such as Pacas and Agoutis, and Peccaries among numerous other species. The birdlife here is equally spectacular, with Toucans, Macaws, Hummingbirds and the sought after Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock. The forest is in the homeland of the Makushi people, who have lived here and used the forest for thousands of years. Although the forest around Atta Rainforest Lodge is excellent for birds, the major attraction here is a 154 metre long canopy walkway which is only 750 metres from the lodge. The walkway has four platforms, the highest of which is over 30 metres above the ground, and these will allow us the opportunity to spot a range of canopy species, many of which we would struggle to see well from the forest floor.

Day 4: Atta Rainforest Lodge

Early this morning we return to Iwokrama Forest for a chance to spot birdlife and Red Howler and Black Spider Monkeys. Today enjoy the canopy of the forest, with several wildlife and birdwatching trails available.

As darkness falls on the canopy walkway, you may see the White-winged Potoo. Night walks are also possible and something interesting or new always seems to pop on to the scene including one of the six different cats to be found along the transnational road near the lodge.

🛏️ Overnight: Atta Rainforest Lodge, Iwokrama Forest
🍽️ Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day 5: Atta Rainforest Lodge to Karanambu Lodge

Total road distance: approx. 55–65 km – Total driving time: approx. 2–2.5 hours

Start the day with the dawn chorus from the canopy walkway before breakfast and departure. Travel through the Iwokrama rainforest to Ginep Landing, then continue by boat along the Rupununi River to Karanambu Lodge, with opportunities to spot Giant River Otters en route. In the afternoon, explore the river and surrounding wetlands, observing wildlife and witnessing the Victoria amazonica waterlily bloom at dusk. Return by boat with spotlighting for nocturnal creatures.

🛏️ Overnight: Karanambu Lodge, Rupununi
🍽️ Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day 6: Karanambu Lodge

Begin the day with an early excursion across the grasslands in search of Giant Anteaters, often seen foraging at termite mounds. In the evening, choose between a river trip or guided birdwatching in the nearby woodlands, with chances to spot the elusive Agami Heron, nightjars and Double-striped Thick-knees.

🛏️ Overnight: Karanambu Lodge, Rupununi or similar
🍽️ Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day 7: Karanambu Lodge to Georgetown

Total road distance: approx. 100–110 km – Total driving time: approx. 2.5–3 hours

Enjoy a final early morning excursion, either searching the savannah once more for Giant Anteaters or exploring the Rupununi River for Giant Otters, Black Caiman and Arapaima. Return to the lodge for breakfast before transferring across the savannah to Lethem. Board a scheduled flight to Georgetown, where you will be met and transferred to your hotel where the rest of the day is at leisure.

🛏️ Overnight: Cara Lodge or similar, Georgetown or similar
🍽️ Meals: Breakfast, Lunch

Day 8: Georgetown – Backyard Café Experience – Flight to Paramaribo (Suriname)

Total road distance: approx. 50–55 km – Total driving time: approx. 2.5–3 hours

This morning, we make an early start to have breakfast at one of the local stands with our host, guide and culinary master, Chef Delven Adams, who will guide us around Bourda Market, the largest of the four markets in Georgetown. We will start our tour with a brief stop at the Guyana Shop which has all the local products produced and packaged in Guyana, before heading over to the market where we will meet some of the vendors who Chef buys from daily.

We will visit the fish market, the meat section and the haberdashery section, where one can find anything you can think of from thread to bolts of all kinds of fabric. Dry goods like rice and of course demerara sugar is abundant. A stop at the bush medicine stalls is always educational. Heading outside you can see, touch and taste a variety of local fruits and vegetables unique in this part of the world. The chef will make his purchases with your suggestions of what you would like to try and will then head home to start preparing while we continue on a tour of the city of Georgetown with an experienced guide who will give you the history, rumour and facts on Georgetown and its citizens.

During your visit to Georgetown, there are a number of interesting sites that should not be missed such as the National Museum, which contains a broad selection of our animal life portrayed in taxidermy in beautiful old glass cases, and the Walter Roth Museum of Anthropology, which houses a wonderful collection of artefacts and explains history and lifestyle of our indigenous peoples. On this mix of vehicle and walking tour, enjoy the views of other historic buildings along this promenade such as the Public Library, City Hall, the Victoria Law Courts, St. Andrews Kirk, Stabroek Market, once described as a “bizarre bazaar”, and St. George’s Cathedral, which is one of the world’s tallest free-standing wooden buildings.

After our city tour, we will go to the Backyard Café for lunch. This, as the name suggests, is a backyard that Chef has turned into an exclusive little hidden gem of a restaurant. If you are interested, Chef will welcome you to join him as he prepares a wonderful meal prepared from the fruits and vegetables we bought in the market in the morning. Or you can just sit under the arbour and sip unique blends of juice or enjoy a cold beer, while taking in the sounds and smells of a delicious meal in the making. Once he is ready, we will start eating our way through the courses, remember to pace yourself as you will want to try it all. We will then transfer to the airport for a flight to Paramaribo. On arrival we will transfer to our hotel.

🛏️ Overnight: Eco Torarica Hotel, Paramaribo or similar
🍽️ Meals: Breakfast, Lunch

📍 Eco Torarica Hotel
Formerly a townhouse, that has been transformed into the most charming lobby of one of Paramaribo’s most favoured hotels with numerous eco-friendly features. The Eco Torarica is located within a 5 minute walk of the historic centre of Paramaribo and the tantalising city life. Rooms offer either a breath-taking view of the Suriname River or a beautiful view of the lovely garden. The hotel is ideal for guests who want to visit Suriname to relax and unwind.

📍 Paramaribo
Suriname’s capital looks rather out of place in South America, an unusual collection of architecture that often has you wondering exactly where you are. Located on the banks of the Suriname River, Paramaribo, Parbo to the locals, changed hands a few times between the Dutch and the English in the early days of their involvement in the region but was under Dutch control from 1815 until the end of colonial rule in 1975. Evidence of this heritage can be seen in the city’s historic district, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where wooden houses with elaborate and elegant facades line the streets close to the old Fort Zeelandia. Elsewhere African markets vie for space with mosques and Hindu temples and buildings sport Chinese script, all of these reflecting the unique ethnic make up of the capital and of Suriname itself.

On street corners and open-air bars look out for men sitting with caged birds, a popular pastime in Suriname is entering songbirds in singing competitions. The population of the city is just 250,000, giving it rather an intimate feel, and the historic inner city is a fascinating place to wander round, with stunning old wooden churches and whitewashed mansions lining the streets.

Day 9: Paramaribo and Commewijne Exploration

Total road distance: approx. 50–60 km – Total driving time: approx. 1.75–2.25 hours

Begin the day with a guided walking tour through the UNESCO listed historic centre of Paramaribo, including visits to Fort Zeelandia, Independence Square, the Presidential Palace, Palm Gardens and the impressive wooden Cathedral. Enjoy a photo stop at the neighbouring synagogue and mosque before continuing by vehicle past colonial buildings and ending the city tour at the lively Waterkant along the Suriname River. After lunch at a local restaurant, cross the river into the Commewijne district to explore the former plantation of Peperpot, now a nature reserve home to diverse birdlife and monkeys. Conclude the day with a visit to Fort Nieuw Amsterdam, an open-air museum housed within a historic British built fortress at the confluence of the Suriname and Commewijne rivers.

🛏️ Overnight: Eco Torarica Hotel, Paramaribo or similar
🍽️ Meals: Breakfast, Lunch

Please note: covered clothing is required when entering the cathedral.

Day 10: Paramaribo – Danpaati

Total road distance: approx. 190–210 km – Total driving time: approx. 2.5–3 hours

Early this morning, around 6.30am, we head south from Paramaribo by road to Atjoni, and then travel by a small open motorised boat, approximately 2.5 to 3 hours depending on water levels, along the Upper Suriname River to Danpaati River Lodge which is situated on an island in the middle of the rainforest. We pass Maroon villages through breath-taking scenery. On arrival you can swim in the pool or the river and relax in the forest surroundings. In the evening, we head out on the river in search of Caiman lying on the river banks.

🛏️ Overnight: Danpaati River Lodge, Upper Suriname River or similar
🍽️ Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Local currency is required to use the washroom on the boat, approximately 5–10 SRD per person, foreign currency not accepted.

Day 11: Danpaati

Today we will visit one of the twelve villages that are affiliated with Danpaati to learn about the customs and culture of the local Maroon groups. In the afternoon we take a forest walk and learn about the traditional medicinal uses of the plants here. The rest of the day is at leisure with the opportunity to take a dugout canoe around the island or try some fishing.

🛏️ Overnight: Danpaati River Lodge, Upper Suriname River or similar
🍽️ Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

📍 The Maroons
The Maroon people are the descendants of former runaway slaves who fled the colonial plantations from the end of the 17th century onwards, for a better life in the interior. Most settled alongside rivers, some crossing into French Guiana, and customs that they had brought with them from Africa remain largely free from outside influences. A visit to Maroon villages presents an utterly different side of Latin America that is rarely encountered by travellers.

Day 12: Danpaati – Paramaribo

Total road distance: approx. 190–210 km – Total driving time: approx. 2.5–3 hours

This morning is at leisure at the lodge until lunch, and in the afternoon, we depart by dugout canoe for Atjoni and return by vehicle to Paramaribo.

🛏️ Overnight: Torarica Hotel, Paramaribo or similar
🍽️ Meals: Breakfast, Lunch

Day 13: Paramaribo – Saint Laurent du Maroni (French Guiana)

Total road distance: approx. 320–350 km – Total driving time: approx. 5.5–6.5 hours

After an early breakfast, we depart the hotel, approximately 06.45am, and travel 2.5 hours along the coastal road to the border point at Albina where we will go through the customs and immigration formalities. This is generally very quick and we will soon be on the pirogue, a small semi covered motorised boat, crossing the Maroni River heading for French Guiana. We will be met by our French guide on arrival in St Laurent. Enjoy a mini city tour making a brief visit to the well-preserved Transportation Camp. The facility was the processing centre for the majority of convicts being sent to the penal colonies in French Guiana. Having served their original sentences, the convicts were then obliged to serve the same length of time here in an attempt to populate the colonies, perhaps the best-known inmate was Papillon.

Enjoy a packed lunch en route to the Guiana Space Centre for a guided tour of this vast and highly secure facility. As launch schedules are subject to change, the day’s itinerary may be adjusted at short notice. The tour typically includes a coach visit to key sites such as assembly buildings, launch pads and control centres. While the official tour is conducted in French, your guide will provide English translations throughout.

🛏️ Overnight: Hotel Atlantis, Kourou or similar
🍽️ Meals: Breakfast, Lunch

📍 Hotel Atlantis
Hotel Atlantis is a modern hotel on the edge of Bois Devil Lake with air conditioned rooms, telephone, WiFi, satellite television and refrigerator. The spacious open lobby includes a patio overlooking the pool, lake and tennis courts. The small trendy restaurant offers French and Creole cuisine and has an excellent selection of wines.

Day 14: Saint Laurent du Maroni – Devil’s Island – Cayenne

Total road distance: approx. 70 km – Total driving time: approx. 1.25–1.5 hours

After an early breakfast we will transfer, approximately 07.30am, by road to the dock in Kourou for our departure for the Iles du Salut. What is commonly referred to as “Devil’s Island” is really a triangle of three islands, Îles du Salut, or the Salvation Islands, seven miles off the coast of Kourou. We set sail aboard a catamaran towards our first stop, Île Royale. The islands played a central role in French history as far back as 1762 when they were first employed as a transit point, first for explorers, then slaves and later for political prisoners and convicts. Île Saint-Joseph is the southernmost island and was known as the silent island as inmates were not allowed to speak to either the guards or fellow convicts. Papillon claimed to have spent two years here in solitary confinement. St Joseph was known as the ‘man-eater’ for obvious reasons.

Île Royale is the site of the oldest and most extensive buildings on the islands, featuring an old church, administration buildings, officers’ quarters, and today, a good restaurant and lodging facilities. Ironically, the actual Île du Diable, Devil’s Island, is inaccessible to visitors due to dangerous shoreline conditions. This is the island where the prison’s best-known occupant, Alfred Dreyfus, was famously secluded. Papillon claimed that he escaped the island on a coconut raft.

Your boat will dock on Ile Royale. The prison buildings here are quite well preserved, and you can meander at will through the cell blocks, dormitory buildings, and other structures. Be sure to check out the children’s cemetery behind the old hospital. If your walking tour wraps up early, there are plenty of shady trees with benches under which you can catch a cool breeze down by the dock. Keep an eye out for sea turtles that like to scavenge among the rocks near the dock. After lunch, explore Île Saint-Joseph with your guide and, if conditions allow, enjoy a short swim close to the island. Return to Kourou by catamaran and transfer to Cayenne.

🛏️ Overnight: Central Hotel, Cayenne or similar
🍽️ Meals: Breakfast, Lunch

Ocean waves can get a little choppy en route to Devil’s Islands, so be sure to travel with small dry bag to protect all electronics. You are required to be barefoot when on the catamaran.

📍 Iles du Salut
The islands played a central role in French history from as far back as 1792 when they were used firstly as a transit point for explorers, then slaves and later for political prisoners. Ile St Joseph is the southernmost island of this notorious former penal colony and the prison buildings here are quite well preserved; you can wander through the cell blocks, dormitories and other structures at leisure and observe nature slowly reclaiming the land. Ile Royale is the site of the oldest buildings on the islands with an old church, administration buildings, officers’ quarters and today a restaurant and lodging facilities.

Day 15: Tour ends in Cayenne – Departure from Cayenne

Time at leisure until your transfer to the airport for your onward flight.

🍽️ Meals: Breakfast