Hidden Guianas with Mark Huggins

Day 1: Arrive in Georgetown

Pickup and transfer from Cheddi Jagan International Airport to Georgetown and check in at the historic old world charm Cara Lodge property. No meals or guided services today. Overnight Cara Lodge.

Cara Lodge – Georgetown

Cara Lodge was built in the 1840s. It has a long and romantic history and was the home of the first Lord Mayor of Georgetown. Over the years, the property has been visited by many dignitaries including King Edward VIll who stayed at the house in 1923. Other dignitaries have included President Jimmy Carter, HRH King Charles III and Mick Jagger. This magnificent wooden colonial home turned hotel offers the tradition and nostalgia of a bygone era.

Georgetown

Located on the coast, Georgetown is Guyana’s largest city and has a distinctly Caribbean feel to it, interspersed with its colonial British, French and Dutch heritage. The city was founded in the 18th century but did not become the capital until it was captured by the French in 1782, only to fall into British hands thirty years later. It owes its existence to the fertility of its soil – early settlers found this to be an ideal region for establishing plantations, and reclaimed what had been floodplains through the building of dykes and canals. Georgetown’s streets are laid out in a grid pattern and contain many interesting historic buildings dating back to the 19th century, as well as some colourful markets.  

Day 2: Georgetown and Kaieteur Falls

Early this morning before dawn for early risers, we have an optional tour to visit the Botanical Gardens. where, if we are lucky, we may observe the spectacular Blood-coloured Woodpecker. This colourful Veniliornis is found only in the Guianas and even there almost wholly limited to the narrow coastal plain. The gardens host Snail Kite, Gray Hawk, Pearl Kite, Carib Grackle, Red-bellied and Red-shouldered Macaws and the rare festive parrots. We will walk on trails in the back of the gardens and may see Yellow-chinned Spinetail, Black-crested Antshrike, Silver-beaked Tanager, Buff-breasted Wren, Golden-spangled Piculet and Ashy-headed Greenlet. You may even want to take a break from birding to feed some manatees in one of the nearby ponds. Return to the hotel for breakfast. 

Around noon we take a scheduled flight over the Demerara and Essequibo Rivers and hundreds of miles of unbroken tropical rainforest to land at Kaieteur Falls, the world’s highest free-falling waterfall.

 Kaieteur supports a unique micro environment with Tank Bromeliads, the largest in the world, in which the tiny Golden frog spends its entire life and the rarely seen Guiana Cock- of-the-rock nesting close by. The lucky visitor may also see the famous flights of the Kaieteur Swifts or Makonaima Birds which nest under the vast shelf of rock carved over millions of years by the black water of the Potaro River.

 After spending time on the trails, staring at wonder from the various vantage points, out across this magnificent force of nature, we return by aircraft to Georgetown.

 For those that wish to sample some of the lively nightlife of Georgetown, please enquire about the optional Sewall experience. Overnight Cara Lodge (B, Snack at Kaieteur)

Notes: On occasion the visit to Kaieteur Falls may need to be re- scheduled due to unfavourable weather conditions or other uncontrollable extenuating circumstances. Note you are required on arrival at the airstrip at Kaieteur to be able to walk to various viewpoints of the falls. The walking is generally straightforward but there is some uneven ground. The authorities have restricted travellers going right up to the edge of the drop off for obvious safety reasons.

Kaieteur Falls

Kaieteur Falls is a spectacular site, five times higher than Niagara Falls, and one of the most powerful waterfalls in the world. First seen by Europeans in 1870 it was known to indigenous people before this There are no other falls in the world with the magnitude of the sheer drop existing at Kaieteur. Amerindian legend of the Patamona tribe has it that Kai, one of the tribe’s chiefs (after whom the falls is named), committed self-sacrifice by canoeing himself over the falls. It was believed this would encourage the Great Spirit Makonaima to save the tribe from being destroyed by the savage Caribishi. 

Day 3: Georgetown – Domestic flight to Fair View Airstrip - Iwokrama (Atta Rainforest Lodge)

Fly over Guyana’s rainforest to land at Fair View Airstrip, from where we transfer to Iwokrama, an incredible region of pristine rainforest with a breath-taking diversity of species. We travel along one of the best trails for seeing Jaguar. Sightings are rare due to the density of the forest either side of the track, but if you are very lucky you may see one of Guyana’s most elusive creatures. Along the road we will look out for a myriad of bird species that frequent the edge of the forest. The road is the only north to south access in Guyana and links the country to Brazil, but there is very little traffic and wildlife such as Agouti, Tayra, Puma, Tapir and Black Curassow are sometimes spotted. Check in to the wonderful rainforest lodge at Atta. After settling in, visit the Iwokrama Canopy Walkway, 30 metres above the ground, for a different perspective of the forest. We will also spend time exploring the clearing around Atta Lodge, where you will have an excellent chance of spotting the Crimson Fruit Crow, and Black Curassow. Overnight at Atta Rainforest Lodge. (BLD)

Iwokrama

Iwokrama Forest covers nearly a million acres and is home to a bewildering array of different species. Its name means ‘place of refuge’ in the language of the Makushi Amerindians, who retreated here to avoid the predations of the slave trade. Iwokrama was established as a centre for the study of the rainforest and has been set aside to promote sustainable tourism within the region. Wildlife here includes Jaguar, Caiman, Howler and Spider Monkeys, rodents such as Pacas and Agoutis, and Peccaries among numerous other species. The birdlife here is equally spectacular, with Toucans, Macaws, Hummingbirds and the sought-after Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock. The forest is in the homeland of the Makushi people, who have lived here and used the forest for thousands of years. Although the forest around Atta Rainforest Lodge is excellent for birds, the major attraction here is a 154-metre-long canopy walkway which is only 750m from the lodge.  The walkway has two platforms, the highest of which is over 30 metres above the ground, and these will allow us the opportunity to spot a range of canopy species, many of which we would struggle to see well from the forest floor. 

Atta Rainforest Lodge

Atta Rainforest Lodge is 500 metres from the base of the Iwokrama Canopy Walkway, offering comfortable private-room accommodation with ensuite bathrooms, delicious home-cooked meals, and traditional Amerindian hospitality. The communal building houses the bar, dining area and kitchen and is open sided with views across the gardens to the towering forest, which completely surrounds the lodge. Hammocks and outdoor benches enhance the lovely gardens which include varieties of heliconias that attract over ten different hummingbirds, close enough for the perfect photo.

Day 4: Atta Rainforest Lodge – Iwokrama Forest

Early this morning we return to Iwokrama Forest for a chance to spot birdlife and Red Howler and Black Spider Monkeys. Today enjoy the canopy of the forest, with several wildlife and birdwatching trails available.  Enjoy biking along the trails around the lodge. As darkness falls on the canopy walkway, you may see the White-winged Potoo.  Night walks are also possible and something interesting or new always seems to pop on to the scene including one of the six different cats to be found along the transnational road near the lodge. Sightings of cats are rare, but do happen so keep your eyes peeled!  Overnight at Atta Rainforest Lodge (BLD)

Day 5: Atta Rainforest Lodge – Rock View Lodge

Once again head out early when the birding is at its best and take to canopy walkways of Iwokrama. Back to the lodge for a hearty breakfast, and then leave our friendly hosts. On our way stop at Corkwood where there is a comparatively short trail to hopefully see the amazingly brilliant Guianan Cock-of-the-rock. Surely a sight to behold for any keen birder. This trail is through pristine rainforest and the guides can explain how the plants are used for medicines and other uses. Continue to Rock View Lodge where the rest of the day will be at leisure to relax in the beautiful surrounds. Overnight Rock View Lodge (BLD) floor. 

Rock View Lodge

Rock View Lodge is located where the savannah meets the forest-covered foothills of the Pakaraima Mountains. With its tropical gardens and flowering trees, the lodge resembles an oasis in the savannah, and attracts many species of birds, particularly nectar feeders and frugivores. Nearby patches of light forest are home to certain ant birds and flycatchers, and of course the grasslands support an avifauna of their own.

Eight comfortable rooms have ensuites and feature a patio and hammock for relaxing. Meals are served in the dining room under the mango trees and most of the produce is grown on the property. The pool has a lovely setting in the gardens and is a welcome respite on a hot day.

Day 6: Rock View Lodge – Lethem – Domestic flight to Georgetown

At dawn take a hike in the foothills of the Pakaraima Mountains on the Panorama Trail where you might see Cinereous Mourner, Finsch’s Euphonia, Reddish Hermit, Rufous-bellied Antwren, Green-tailed and Yellow-billed Jacamar. The views across the savannah and villages as the sun rises are spectacular. Return to the lodge for breakfast before departure to the frontier town of Lethem on the Brazilian border, for the flight back to Georgetown. Transfer to the comforting old-world charm of Cara Lodge where the rest of the day is at leisure (B)

Day 7: Georgetown – Backyard Café Experience – Regional flight to Paramaribo (Suriname)

This morning, we make an early start to have breakfast at one of the local stands with our host, guide and culinary master, Chef Delven Adams who will guide us around Bourda Market, the largest of the four markets in Georgetown. We will start our tour with a brief stop at the Guyana Shop which has all the local products produced and packaged in Guyana, before heading over to the market where we will meet some of the vendors who Chef buys from daily.
We will visit the fish market, the meat section and the haberdashery section - where one can find anything you can think of from thread to bolts of all kinds of fabric. Dry goods like rice and of course demerara sugar is abundant. A stop at the bush medicine stalls is always educational. Heading outside you can see, touch and taste a variety of local fruits and vegetables unique in this part of the world. The chef will make his purchases with your suggestions of what you would like to try and will then head home to start preparing while we continue on a tour of the city of Georgetown with an experienced guide who will give you the history, rumour and facts on Georgetown and its citizens.

During your visit to Georgetown, there are a number of interesting sites that should not be missed such as the National Museum, which contains a broad selection of our animal life portrayed in taxidermy in beautiful old glass cases, and the Walter Roth Museum of Anthropology, which houses a wonderful collection of artefacts and explains history and lifestyle of our indigenous peoples. On this mix of vehicle and walking tour, enjoy the views of other historic buildings along this promenade such as the Public Library, City Hall, the Victoria Law Courts, St. Andrews Kirk, Stabroek Market - once described as a “bizarre bazaar, and St. George’s Cathedral, which is one of the world’s tallest free-standing wooden buildings.
After our city tour, we will go to the Backyard Café for lunch. This, as the name suggests, is a backyard that Chef has turned into an exclusive little hidden gem of a restaurant. If you are interested, Chef will welcome you to join him as he prepares a wonderful meal prepared from the fruits and vegetables we bought in the market in the morning. Or you can just sit under the arbour and sip unique blends of juice or enjoy a cold beer, while taking in the sounds and smells of a delicious meal in the making. Once he is ready, we will start eating our way through the courses, remember to pace yourself as you will want to try it all.

Pickup and transfer from Eugene F. Correia International Airport to Georgetown.

 Board scheduled flight for journey to Suriname landing at Edward Gummels Airport.

 Pick up from the Edward Gummels Airport and transfer to your hotel in Paramaribo. Overnight Eco Torarica Hotel (BL)

 Eco Torarica Hotel

Formerly a townhouse, that has been transformed into the most charming lobby of one of Paramaribo’s most favoured hotels with numerous eco-friendly features. The Eco Torarica is located within a 5-minute walk of the historic centre of Paramaribo and the tantalizing city life. Rooms offer either a breath-taking view of the Suriname River or a beautiful view of the lovely garden. The hotel is simply ideal for guests who want to visit Suriname to relax and unwind.

Paramaribo

Suriname’s capital looks rather out of place in South America – an unusual collection of architecture that often has you wondering exactly where you are. Located on the banks of the Suriname River, Paramaribo (Parbo to the locals) changed hands a few times between the Dutch and the English in the early days of their involvement in the region but was under Dutch control from 1815 until the end of colonial rule in 1975. Evidence of this heritage can be seen in the city’s historic district (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), where wooden houses with elaborate and elegant facades line the streets close to the old Fort Zeelandia. Elsewhere African markets vie for space with mosques and Hindu temples and buildings sport Chinese script, all of these reflecting the unique ethnic make-up of the capital and of Suriname itself.

On street corners and open-air bars look out for men sitting with caged birds – a popular pastime in Suriname is entering songbirds in singing competitions. The population of the city is just 250,000, giving it rather an intimate feel, and the historic inner city is a fascinating place to wander round, with stunning old wooden churches and whitewashed mansions lining the streets.       

Day 8: Paramaribo City – Commewijne District

Today we head to the Commewijne district to the east of Paramaribo across the Suriname River. The tour takes us along the former colonial plantations, most of which are now abandoned. We make a stop at plantation Peperpot where the old coffee and cocoa factory, deputy-director’s house and the old office are located. This former plantation is one of the oldest in the history of Suriname. Peperpot was established by the English and already existed before Suriname was conquered by the natives from Zeeland under the command of Abraham Crijnssen in 1667. This is one of the last plantations still in its original condition. Peperpot is renowned for the many birds which can be spotted. From here we make a stop at the mini museum of Marienburg, a former sugar plantation, before enjoying a delicious lunch in a typical Javanese restaurant (warung) in Tamanredjo. We then continue to the confluence of the Commewijne and Suriname Rivers at Nieuw Amsterdam. Here, we will a visit the outdoor museum of Fort Nieuw Amsterdam, with its large fortress which was built as a defence for the crop fields that were situated along the upper parts of both rivers.

Transfer to the pier at Leonsberg where we will be picked up for a sunset dolphin trip. While having a drink (alcoholic or non-alcoholic) we enjoy the cool breeze and river views. Meanwhile, the captain searches the horizon for the dolphins. Normally we see them swim by in groups of up to 20 dolphins. Sometimes they’re very curious and if we are lucky, they will jump and play close to the boat. After having enjoyed this playful company, we part for the wonderful restored plantation Rust & Werk where we will go for a walk in the village. Here the descendants of the contract workers from Indonesia live, we call them the Javanese people. After the sun has set, we will get back on board, pour a drink and enjoy a local snack, and slowly make our way back to Leonsberg. Overnight at Torarica Hotel or similar. (BL)

Dress modestly to enter the Saint Peter and Paul Cathedral.

Day 9 – Paramaribo – Danpaati River Lodge

After an early breakfast, we depart the hotel (around 630am) and head south from Paramaribo by road for 2.5 to 3 hours to Atjoni, and then travel by a small open motorised boat (approx. 2.5-3hrs depending on water levels) along the Upper Suriname River to Danpaati River Lodge which is situated on an island in the middle of the rainforest. We pass Maroon villages through breath-taking scenery. On arrival you can swim in the pool or the river and relax in the forest surroundings. In the evening, we head out on the river in search of Caiman lying on the river banks. Overnight at Danpaati River Lodge (BLD)

Local currency is required to use washrooms at 2-3 pit stops enroute to Atjoni, approx. 5-10 SRD per person, foreign currency not accepted.

Danpaati River Lodge

The Danpaati River Lodge is an exceptionally remote and tranquil oasis in the heart of the rain forest, and welcomes adventurous visitors in search of an escape from modern stresses and distractions. The lodge features a welcoming and breezy lounge facing the river, a large pool surrounded by a hardwood yoga deck, and easy access to one of the few portions of the Suriname River where it is actually safe to swim. Accommodations are in spacious A-frame style cabins with carefully appointed amenities including fresh coffee service in the mornings, mosquito nets, and unbeatable views into the thick, surrounding nature.

Day 10: Danpaati

Today we will visit one of the twelve villages that are affiliated with Danpaati to learn about the customs and culture of the local Maroon groups. In the afternoon we take a forest walk and learn about the traditional medicinal uses of the plants here. The rest of the day is at leisure with the opportunity to take a dugout canoe around the island or try some fishing. After dinner you can enjoy a traditional and cultural dance performance. Traditional dances such as the Seketi, Awasa and Bandamba will be performed by the local people. Your guide will explain the cultural significance of each dance.  Overnight at Danpaati River Lodge (BLD)

The Maroons

The Maroon people are the descendants of former runaway slaves who fled the colonial plantations from the end of the 17th century onwards, for a better life in the interior. Most settled alongside rivers, some crossing into French Guiana and customs that they had brought with them from Africa remain largely free from outside influences. A visit to Maroon villages presents an utterly different side of Latin America that is rarely encountered by travellers.

Day 11: Danpaati River Lodge – Paramaribo – Evening at Mirosso

This morning is at leisure at the lodge until lunch, and in the afternoon, we leave our friendly jungle hosts behind and depart by dugout canoe for Atjoni and return by vehicle to Paramaribo. In the evening you will be picked up for dinner at a stylish Indonesian restaurant " Mirosso". Suriname has an interesting cultural mix and an unexpected Javanese population. After the abolition of slavery, the plantations in Suriname needed a new source of labour. In 1890, the influential Netherlands Trading Society, owner of the plantation Marienburg, undertook a test to attract Javanese contract workers from the Dutch East Indies.  Until then, primarily Hindustani contract workers from British India worked on the Suriname plantations as field and factory workers. On August 9, the first Javanese arrived in Paramaribo. The test was considered successful and by 1894 the colonial government took over the task of recruiting Javanese hands. They came in small groups from the Dutch East Indies to the Netherlands, and from there to Paramaribo. The transport of Javanese immigrants continued until 1914 (except 1894) in two stages through Amsterdam. The Javanese were recruited to work on plantations and then they branched off in opening restaurants. Overnight at Eco Torarica Hotel (BLD)

Day 12: Paramaribo – Saint Laurent du Moroni (French Guaina)

After an early breakfast, we depart the hotel (approx. 0645am) and travel 2.5 hours along the coastal road to the border point at Albina where we will go through the customs and immigration formalities. This is generally very quick and we will soon be on the pirogue (small semi covered motorised boat) crossing the Maroni River heading for French Guiana. We will be met by our French guide on arrival in St Laurent. Enjoy a mini city tour making a brief visit to the well-preserved Transportation Camp. The facility was the processing centre for the majority of convicts being sent to the penal colonies in French Guiana. Having served their original sentences, the convicts were then obliged to serve the same length of time here in an attempt to populate the colonies- perhaps the best-known inmate was Papillon. Just offshore lies the wreck of the British steamer Edith Cavel which sank in bad weather in 1924- it is now so overgrown with vegetation that it looks like an island.

Local currency is required to use washrooms at 2 pit stops enroute to Albina, approx. 5-10 SRD per person, foreign currency not accepted.

We will make a short stop to visit the church of St. Joseph in Iracoubou. The entire inside of the church was hand-painted by a convict from a nearby penal colony.

Overnight Hotel Atlantis (BL)

Hotel Atlantis

Hotel Atlantis is a modern hotel on the edge of Bois Devil Lake with air-conditioned rooms, telephone, WiFi, satellite television and refrigerator. The spacious open lobby includes a patio overlooking the pool, lake and tennis courts. The small trendy restaurant offers French and Creole cuisine and has an excellent selection of wines.

Day 13: Saint Laurent du Moroni - Devil’s Island

After an early breakfast we will transfer (appro. 0730am) by road to the dock in Kourou for our departure for the Iles du Salut. What is commonly referred to as "Devils Island" is really a triangle of three islands - Îles du Salut, or the Salvation Islands - seven miles off the coast of Kourou. We set sail aboard a catamaran towards our first stop, Île Royale. The islands played a central role in French history as far back as 1762 when they were first employed as a transit point, first for explorers, then slaves and later for political prisoners and convicts. Île Saint-Joseph is the southernmost island and was known as the silent island as inmates were not allowed to speak to either the guards or fellow convicts. Papillion claimed to have spent two years here in solitary confinement. St. Joseph was known as the ‘man-eater’ for obvious reasons.
Île Royale is the site of the oldest and most extensive buildings on the islands, featuring an old church, administration buildings, officers' quarters, and today, a good restaurant and lodging facilities. Ironically, the actual Île du Diable (Devil's Island) is inaccessible to visitors due to dangerous shoreline conditions. This is the island where the prison's best-known occupant, Alfred Dreyfus, was famously secluded. Papillion claimed that he escaped the island on a coconut raft.
Your boat will dock on Ilse Royale. The prison buildings here are quite well preserved, and you can meander at will through the cell blocks, dormitory buildings, and other structures. Be sure to check out the children's cemetery behind the old hospital. If your walking tour wraps up early, there are plenty of shady trees with benches under which you can catch a cool breeze down by the dock. Keep an eye out for sea turtles that like to scavenge among the rocks near the dock. After lunch, explore Île Saint-Joseph with your guide and/or enjoy a short swim close to the island. Return to Kourou by catamaran and transfer back to the hotel in St. Laurent. Overnight at Hotel Atlantis (BL).

Ocean waves can get a little choppy enroute to Devil’s Islands, so be sure to travel with small dry bag to protect all electronics. You are required to be barefooted when on the catamaran.

Iles du Salut

The islands played a central role in French history from as far back as 1792 when they were used firstly as a transit point for explorers, then slaves and later for political prisoners.  Ile St Joseph is the southernmost island of this notorious former penal colony and the prison buildings here are quite well preserved; you can wander through the cell blocks, dormitories and other structures at leisure and observe Nature slowly reclaiming the land. Ile Royale is the site of the oldest buildings on the islands with an old church, administration buildings, officers’ quarters and today a restaurant and lodging facilities.

Day 14: Space Centre – Cayenne

This morning, we will join a tour of the Center Spatiale Guyanaise or the Guiana Space Centre. The tour is conducted in French but your guide will provide translations as often as possible.

Note: Launch schedules are a closely guarded secret so the schedule today may be changed at short notice. Please see below note

Your trip in French Guiana includes a visit to the Space Centre and Devils Island which are subject to unforeseeable closures at short notice, either for technical reasons or around rocket launches. Whilst we have the scheduled rocket launch dates, the launches are subject to change due to weather and technical considerations, and the final launch dates may vary drastically from the schedule. It may be changed by hours, days or even weeks. When a rocket is to be launched the Space Centre will close on the day of the launch, sometimes they may close for a few days before and after, it varies from launch to launch. As Devils Island is below the launch trajectory the site is also closed on launch days. As you would appreciate, these conditions are beyond our control, and we apologise for any inconvenience that may be experienced and will do everything to minimize changes to your itinerary. We will attempt to reschedule visits, where possible, or offer alternative activities. The upside is you may be lucky enough to see a rocket being launched!

Continue to our final destination on the tour, Cayenne, the capital of French Guiana.

Enjoy a tour of Cayenne, the administrative and commercial centre of French Guiana. It is a typical creole town with about 50,000 inhabitants, half of the entire population of the country. The Fort Cépérou, the Place Léopold Heder, the hotel of the Jésuites, the Place de Grenoble, the Place des Palmistes, the colonial hospital, the Franconie Museum, the town hall and the city centre are the gems of Cayenne. Overnight Hotel Central (BL).

Day 15: Depart Cayenne

After a remarkable journey through the Guianas, transfer to the airport for your flight back via Paris and onward destinations (B)