Hidden Gems
of West Africa

Day 1: Arrival in Lome

Arrive in Lome and transfer to your hotel. For those arriving early in the day, the rest of the day is at leisure to explore. Overnight Sarakawa Hotel or similar.  

Lome

Togo’s capital is a vibrant city situated on the coast, sitting right on the international border with Ghana and with a population of just under a million. Slightly dishevelled, it is quite an atmospheric little city and is now recovering from the civil disturbances suffered by the country in the 1990s. Its origins date back to the 18th century, when it was settled by the Ewe people, one of Togo’s largest ethnic groups. Like many African cities it doesn’t have too much in the way of formal sightseeing but there are a few things worth exploring - the Grand Marche with its exuberant businesswomen known as ‘Nana Benz’ who monopolise the sale of cloth in Togo. Not be missed is the fetish market, where animal parts are sold for use in traditional medicines. This is not a great place for animal lovers, with heads and body parts of everything from sharks and crocodiles to gorillas on sale, but offers a fascinating insight into a belief system very different from our own. Lome has a number of buildings which date from the German occupation, most noticeable of which is a rather bizarre looking 19th century Gothic style cathedral which looks rather out of place in a West African city.

Day 2: Lome  

This morning we will begin a city tour with a visit to the lively and colourful grand Marché, or big market, with the Sacred Heart Cathedral in its midst. We then head to the fascinating- if rather gruesome- fetish market, where animal parts are sold for use in traditional medicines; Vodou healers and practitioners are on hand for consultations (please see the Notes section for more information). We then visit Artisans’ village where we will see artisans weaving cloth, carving statues, making baskets, lampshades and sewing leather shoes besides much more. In the evening you can decide to rest at your hotel or if you prefer your guide can take you out into town to experience local nightlife. Overnight Sarakawa Hotel or similar (BLD)

Day 3: Lome to Ouidah (Benin) (approx. 2hr30m driving dependant on local conditions and border checks)

Today we leave Lome and head to Aneho, historically known as Little Popo. On arrival we take a pirogue across Lake Togo to Togoville on the north-eastern side of the lake. As we mix with the locals walking through the communities, we will visit the many active shrines learning their importance to the locals living here. Prior to setting off back to Aneho we also visit a shrine that commemorates the appearance of the Virgin Mary on Lake Togo in the late 1970s. After lunch we cross the border into Benin and arrive into Ouidah, a stronghold of voodoo and once an important slave port. The rest of the day is at leisure. Overnight Casa del Papa Hotel or similar (BLD)

Day 4: Ouidah – Cotonou (approx. 1 hour driving)

After breakfast we set off for our tour of Ouidah. We visit the python temple, where snakes are venerated as representations of gods, and head to the beach and the sombre ‘Gate of No Return’, the point from which slaves left Africa for the New World. You will also experience a private Voodo Ceremony during your time at Segbe. After lunch we continue to Cotonou. The rest of the day is at leisure. Overnight Hotel Casa de Cielo or similar (BLD)

Voodoo

Voodoo, or Vodoun as it is known here, is one of the most important religions in this part of West Africa. Forget what you may have seen on TV about it being a form of black magic – here it has the same legitimacy as any other belief system and has been adopted as an official religion by Benin. Voodoo is a complex and intricate way of seeing of the world, with literally hundreds of different gods responsible for various areas of daily life – some are benevolent, some less so, and in order to communicate with them and ask for favours local people will seek the assistance of followers, or adepts. There are numerous voodoo temples scattered around the coastal regions of both Benin and Togo, each headed by a priest who for a suitable donation will intercede on your behalf. Voodoo is not limited to the temples though and travelling around the region it is not unlikely that you will see some ceremony being carried out. Also worth looking out for are the Egunguns – earthly manifestations of the dead who roam the streets in outlandish costumes, striking fear into the heart of local people. Sacrifice and blood are important within voodoo rituals, and any ceremony worth its salt is likely to involve a chicken being killed, its blood spilled onto a shrine in order to seal the pact. You’re also likely to see fetishes dotted around villages – these are inanimate objects such as rocks or trees in which a spirit is believed to reside, often covered in candle wax, feathers and blood where sacrifices have been made. Gaining some understanding of voodoo allows you a glimpse into a magical world where nothing is quite as it seems, and is perhaps the most fascinating aspect of travelling here.

Ouidah

Founded in the fifteenth century and made famous by Bruce Chatwin’s novel, ‘The Viceroy of Ouidah’, Ouidah was once a centre for the slave trade in this part of West Africa and many of its buildings bear witness to a strong European influence. As well as a rather imposing and out of place cathedral, Afro-Brazilian architecture and crumbling colonial buildings, the Portuguese fort holds an interesting history museum which gives an insight into the past life of the town. Of equal interest is the Python Temple, where a collection of snakes are venerated as earthly representations of voodoo gods. A thought provoking excursion is the 3km walk along the ‘Slave Route’, where those boarding the boats across the Atlantic were herded like cattle to the shore. At the end on the beach lies the modern ‘Gate of No Return’, built in memory of the thousands who never made it back.

Day 5: Cotonou – Porto-Novo - Cotonou

This morning we leave Cotonou and head to Porto-Novo, Benin’s capital city. Our first stop is the Ethnographic Museum, which was established by the Dahomey Institute in 1957. The museum houses costumes, ceremonial masks and drums as well as other historical artifacts. We also visit the Royal Palace, now known as the Honme Museum, which is housed in the walled compound of King Toffa who signed the first treaty with the French in 1863. Most of the displays here are from the period of King Toffas reign and there is an excellent example of Alounloun, a traditional Beninese instrument used to play music called Adjogon. A stone throws away from Honme is the Da Silva Museum in a beautiful Afro-Brazilian house dating back to the 1870’s. This eclectic museum is home to some wonderful Afro-Brazilian artefacts Our last stop is the Great Mosque which offers excellent photographic opportunities and fascinating history. We head back to Cotonou for lunch before visiting the Dantokpa Marche, one of West Africa’s largest outdoor markets. Covering over 20 hectares it sells everything you could imagine and is a major contributor to the Benin economy. Overnight Hotel Casa de Cielo or similar (BLD)

 Day 6: Ganvie, the Venice of Western Africa and Agongointo (approx. 2hr30m)

Before heading to Abomey, we visit one of the most beautiful communities here in Benin at Ganvie. Known as the Venice of West Africa, A relaxed paced day and we may decide to try our hands at fishing under the tutelage of a local fisherman. If we are lucky and get a sizeable catch, then our lunch will be fresh fish grilled the local way. After lunch we set off to Abomey (approx. 2 hours’ drive). On arrival visit the recently (1998) discovered underground dwellings of Agongointo - Zoungoudo just a few kilometers outside of Abomey. Discovered during road construction these underground dwellings are believed to date back to the 16th century during the reign of King Dakodonou the second King of Abomey. There are believed to be several hundred of these built 10 meters underground and they were used to protect locals from invaders in addition to offering the element of surprise for local warriors when attacking the enemy. Overnight SunCity Hotel or similar (BLD)

Ganvie

On Lake Nokwe lies the stilt village of Ganvie, a settlement of 25,000 people isolated from the land and only accessible by boat. Legend has it that the Tofinou people fled here in the 18th century to escape the depredation of the more powerful Dahomeyans on the lookout for slaves, and that they were transported to their new home by crocodiles. Whatever the truth behind it, Ganvie is an interesting place to drift through in a boat, watching how people go about their daily lives on the water, stopping at local markets watching the fishermen casting their nets, and is far removed from the busy towns making this a real delight to explore. The market on the mainland is also worth a look, if only for the rather gruesome section dedicated to voodoo.

Abomey

Once the capital of the powerful kingdom of Dahomey, Abomey gained a notorious reputation as the centre of a fierce civilisation, whose rulers preyed mercilessly on the surrounding tribes as they conquered neighbouring lands and captured slaves. During the ‘Scramble for Africa’ Dahomey put up strong resistance against the French colonial armies but in the end were no match for modern weapons, and the kingdom fell in 1892, its king Gbehanzin setting fire to the city. Abomey had been renowned for its palaces, and although many were lost, two still remain which give the visitor a fascinating insight into this once mighty nation. Now museums, they contain a number of interesting exhibits from earlier times, the most impressive of which is a throne which sits on top of human skulls. Also worth a look is the nearby temple whose walls are said to have been made with the blood of enemies.

Day 7: Abomey – Natitingou (approx. 7 hours driving)

An early start as we dedicate the morning to a city tour of Abomey before we depart for Natitingou. Our first stop is the Royal Palace, where we gain an insight into the history and exploits of the warrior kings. The architecture is quite unique and though the palaces are no more inhabited, two of them are now in use as the Historical Museum of Abomey. The museum contains some 1050 relics of the Abomey kings which include Voodoo artefacts, some skulls, and banners of the royal family. Afte the tour we head towards Natitingou (approx. 7 hours drive). On arrival into Natitingou we check-in to the hotel. Overnight Tata Somba Hotel or similar (BLD)

*lunch today is a packed lunch. Optional – can stop at one of the local vendors en route

Day 8: Tata Somba

Today visit Tata Somba village with the Ditamari people who live in this region of north west Benin. The locals at Tata Somba are still living in traditional homesteads that have not changed in centuries with entire families staying in these remarkable buildings. The houses are built as fortresses to keep out intruders and wild animals. The Somba people are known for their traditional body scarring rituals which are given to children from 2 to 3 years of age. These marks are used to identify which tribe you belong to and additional scarring is given later in life to indicate readiness for marriage, reaching puberty and after child birth. After lunch visit the museum to learn more about the culture and life of the people in Benin. Next we learn about the process of making shea butter processing from a local family before returning to our hotel. Overnight Tata Somba Hotel or similar (BLD)

Day 9: To Behicon via Parakou (approx. 2hr30m driving)

We leave Natitingou and head south towards Behicon. En route we find the ancient town of Parakou. Walk through this community meeting locals and the warrior men, and we have the opportunity to see a traditional Horse Dance, an energetic and unique dance, which only the finest warriors can perform. It showcases their triumphs over their enemies and at the same time honours their forefathers. From here we continue to Behicon enjoying lunch en route. On arrival check in to the hotel and the remainder of the day is at leisure. Overnight Hotel Princess or similar (BLD)

Day 10: Hike Mt Klouto and visit Kpalime food market (approx. 6hr30m driving)

This morning set off for Kpalime, crossing the border back into Togo. This afternoon we enjoy a leisurely hike of the stunning Mt Klouto. Afterwards visit the local food market to experience daily life before heading to your hotel. Overnight Parc Residence Hotel or similar (BLD)

 Day 11: Kpalime to Lome and Departure (approx. 2hr30m driving)

A relaxed breakfast this morning as we set off from Kpalime heading southwards to Lome. Today will mainly be a travel day and we will stop for lunch and to walk around some of the communities we pass through. Our aim is to reach Lome in the early afternoon where we can enjoy some last-minute shopping if needed or some relaxation time on the coast before our early evening meal after which we transfer you to the airport for your departure after a wonderful tour of Togo and Benin (BLD)