Ghana, Togo and Benin Voodoo Festival

Day 1: Arrive Cotonou

Arrive in Cotonou where you will be met and transferred to your hotel. Enjoy dinner at your hotel. Overnight Hotel Casa Cielo or similar (D)

Day 2: Adjarra - Porto-Novo - Ganvie 

After breakfast we depart for Porto-Novo the capital city of Benin. Before our arrival we enjoy a walking tour of Adjarra seeing the skilled craftsmen making traditional drums and raffia processing. During our time here we discover the art of basketry and finish our tour experiencing local gin at a traditional distillery. A short ride on the Black River enjoying nature before we set off to Porto Novo. On reaching the capital we enjoy lunch before visiting the Royal Palace, now known as the Honme Museum, and the Grand Mosque. Continue to Ganvie stilt village and on arrival take a boat tour to discover the diverse flora and fauna before returning to the hotel. Overnight Hotel Casa Cielo or similar (BLD)

Ganvie

On Lake Nokwe lies the stilt village of Ganvie, a settlement of 25,000 people isolated from the land and only accessible by boat. Legend has it that the Tofinou people fled here in the 18th century to escape the depredation of the more powerful Dahomeyans on the lookout for slaves, and that they were transported to their new home by crocodiles. Whatever the truth behind it, Ganvie is an interesting place to drift through in a boat, watching how people go about their daily lives on the water, stopping at local markets watching the fishermen casting their nets, and is far removed from the busy towns making this a real delight to explore. The market on the mainland is also worth a look, if only for the rather gruesome section dedicated to voodoo.

Day 3: Voodoo Festival in Ouidah 10th January

Spend today delving into the mysteries of voodoo at Ouidah’s annual voodoo festival. Although there are many festivals around the country, this is the largest. You can expect to see followers and adepts of the various voodoo gods, from the elaborately costumed Zangbetos, to the followers of Kokou, renowned for injuring themselves as a way to reach the divine. Around the edges of the main performance area you can find groups from various voodoo temples performing their own rites and rituals. This is a fascinating insight into a much-maligned religion, and unlike anything you may have seen before. Overnight Hotel Casa Cielo or similar. (BLD) 

Voodoo

Mythologised by bloodthirsty Hollywood films, voodoo originates from this region of West Africa, having been carried to New World countries like Haiti by slaves centuries ago. Voodoo is one of the most important religious systems in this region, an animistic religion comprising of many hundreds of different gods, although there is belief in one supreme being. Togo and Benin are dotted with voodoo temples, manned by priests, but voodoo ceremonies can take place anywhere and it is quite possible to stumble upon them throughout the region. Ceremonies can take many forms but often involve followers falling into trances, accompanied by the beat of pounding drums and dancing. Often adepts will become insensitive to pain, slashing themselves with sharp objects or breaking bottles over their heads. Sacrifice also plays an important part of the religion, and although it is most common to sacrifice chickens, many other creatures are also offered up to the gods such as goats, dogs and cats. Great significance is placed on fetishes, inanimate objects where the spirits are said to reside and which can become focal points for worship.

Day 4: Abomey - Dassa

An early start as we set off northwards to Dassa. On route we stop in Abomey (approx. 2 hours) where we enjoy a city tour, visiting the Royal Palace, the nearby craft market and Goho square to see the Statute of the Brave King Behanzin. After lunch we head to Agonlin where we experience a traditional Guelede performance which is a major highlight. As we set off on the final stretch of our journey to Dassa we stop to see traditional gari processing. Overnight Jecko Hotel or similar (BLD)

Abomey

Abomey was once the capital of one of Africa’s greatest nations, Dahomey, whose rulers struck terror into the heart of surrounding tribes as they made war, conquered land and captured slaves. Its kings built numerous palaces, only two of which remain, the rest having been burned to the ground when the French attacked. Dahomey was a powerful kingdom, and put up fierce resistance to French occupation but in the end was defeated. The kingdom employed a large army, including regiments of female ‘Amazons’. The remaining palaces have been turned into a museum which contains artefacts from Dahomey including a throne which sits on top of human skulls.

Day 5: Dassa -Natitingou

An early morning departure as we set off further northwards to the Dankoli Shrine where we experience a traditional Voodoo ceremony. From here as we venture further north, where we meet the Taneka people and visit their unique villages. Continue to Natitingou and check in to your hotel. Overnight Hotel tortora or similar (BLD)

Day 6: Natitingou - Tata Somba - Kara

This morning visit the local museum before heading to Koussoukoingou, a nearby Tata Somba community. Spend time in the community learning about their customs and enjoy lunch at the highest point of this community. After lunch continue to to Boukounbe to meet the King and experience a local Voodoo ceremony in his presence. We say goodbye to Benin and cross into northern Togo to Koutammakou a UNESCO World Heritage site. See the amazing mud houses (Takienta) of the local Batammariba community and arrive into Kara. Overnight Hotel Kara or similar (BLD)

Day 7: Kara - Kpalime 

Today is mainly a travel day as we head further south to Kpalime. We enjoy the scenery during our drive and the changing communities. Lunch will be in Atakpame before continuing to Kpalime arriving in the afternoon. This afternoon we explore the forest and visit local farms as we meet the community and learn about their local customs and traditions. Overnight Parc Residence or similar (BLD)  

Day 8: Kpalmine - Lome

After a relaxed breakfast we depart for Lomé, the capital city of Togo (approx. 2 hours). On arrival enjoy lunch before taking a tour of the city in the afternoon. Visit the lively and colourful market, with the Sacred Heart Cathedral in its midst. We then head to the fascinating- if rather gruesome- fetish market, where animal parts are sold for use in traditional medicines; Vodou healers and practitioners are on hand for consultations- (please see the Notes section for more information). Overnight Onomo Hotel or similar (BLD)

Lome

Lome is a lively city situated on the coast, virtually on the border with Ghana and with a population of just under a million. It retains a slightly shabby, but in the right light decidedly enchanting, feel and was sorely affected by the civil disturbances in the 1990’s that rocked Togo. Founded by the Ewe people in the eighteenth century, it became the capital of German Togoland under colonial occupation. Lome’s formal attractions are relatively sparse but include its Grand Marche, celebrated for its rich textile businesswomen known as ‘Nana Benz’ who monopolise the sale of cloth in the country. Lome has several buildings dating back to the colonial period including a 19th century Gothic style cathedral which looks rather out of place in a West African city.

Day 9: Lome – Akosombo 

This morning we leave Togo and cross the border into Ghana. Our journey takes us to the beautiful town of Akosombo where we check into our river front hotel. After a short rest we visit Akwamufie Museum then we meet with the King of this area. Early evening enjoy a river cruise where we can see local fishermen. Overnight Afrikiko River Front Hotel or similar (BLD)  

Day 10: Kumasi

After breakfast we head towards the Ashanti region of Ghana. Our first stop during our journey will be to visit a local village, Krobo, to meet one of the families that make traditional Ghanian beads. The Krobo people of Ghana are renowned for their traditional bead jewellery that dates back centuries. We spend time at one of the family compounds to have a go at producing our own beads. After a wonderful morning mixing with locals, seeing village life and making our own bead jewellery we continue towards Kumasi, arriving in the early evening. Overnight Lancaster Kumasi City Hotel or similar (BLD)

Kumasi

Kumasi is the historical and spiritual capital of the Ashanti Kingdom. With its population of nearly one million, Kumasi is a sprawling city with a fantastic central market where traders from all over Africa come to sell their wares. Every kind of Ashanti craft (leather goods, pottery, kente cloth) is found here, along with just about every kind of tropical fruit, vegetable, and provision. We visit the Ashanti Cultural Centre, which has a rich collection of Ashanti artefacts, housed in a reproduction of a traditional Ashanti royal house.

Ashanti People

The Ashanti people were one of the most powerful nations in Africa until the end of the 19th century, when the British annexed Ashanti country, bringing it into their Gold Coast colony. Originally from the northern savannah regions, the Ashanti people migrated south, carving farms out of the wild rainforest. The region was rich in gold, and trade in this precious metal developed quickly, with small tribal states developing and vying for control of resources. In the late 17th century, the Ashanti ruler brought these states together in a loose confederation and the Ashanti Kingdom was born. Their social organisation is centred on the Ashantehene figure, the king of all the Ashanti. The Ashanti are the lords of the gold, so they dress themselves with it during ceremonies. The Ashanti Kingdom was famed for its gold, royalty, ceremony and the development of a bureaucratic judicial system.

Day 11: Kumasi

Today we mix old and new as we travel back in time visiting some of the ancient communities famous for producing local cloth designs and we also experience modern day Kumasi life at the biggest market in West Africa. We start by visiting the traditional village of Adanwomasie, the birthplace of Ghana’s rich colourful Kente cloth. We then head to Ntunso where adinkra cloth and symbols originate. During our time here we learn the meanings behind the various symbols, and we can make our own strip of adinkra cloth using symbols with personal significance. We have lunch at Jofel before heading to Adum, the commercial centre of Kumasi. This afternoon visit Kejetia market, reported to be the largest outdoor market in West Africa. This evening is at leisure, or there is an option to head into town to experience local nightlife and music. Overnight Lancaster Kumasi City or similar (BLD)

Day 12: To Bonkro

This morning we visit the Manhyia Palace, home of the Asantehene King of the Ashanti’s and ruler of the powerful Asanteman Kingdom. The Palace Museum offers a fascinating excursion through the history of this powerful tribe and is extremely informative on the well documented Ashanti history and culture. After the visit to the villages of Bonkro and Breku where we have a lunch that has been prepared by a local chef. After lunch we spend time in the local community, visiting a local school and meeting the Kuapa Kokkoo farmers, who grow and sell cocoa. We learn about the chocolate-making process and how it is used for production of chocolate and soap, among other things. Enjoy dinner at the guest house before movie night with the villagers. There will also be an opportunity to head out for a forest walk to look for some forest mammals. Overnight Picarthes Guesthouse or similar (BLD) 

Day 13: Cape Coast – Elmina 

Today we bid farewell to our new friends and set off south towards Elmina in Ghana’s central region. We stop at the town of Assin Manso and the Ndonkor Nsua (Enslaved African river). This is where enslaved Africans were checked for fitness before being shipped to America. We then make our way to Cape Coast, following the same route used by the slaves, to Cape Coast Castle (UNESCO) where we learn about the recent history of Ghana. Lunch will be taken at a restaurant operated by Baobab Children’s Foundation, an organisation focused on helping and improving the lives of children in this region. This afternoon immerse yourself into true African art with a traditional batik making workshop. Overnight Lemon Beach Hotel or similar (BLD)

Elmina

Elmina is best known for its Castle of St George, built in 1482 by the Portuguese and occupied by the Dutch and British in the following centuries. The Castle and its museum are of considerable interest and the town is now a colourful thriving fishing port where hundreds of colourfully painted wooden fishing canoes are anchored. The best time to see the port is in the morning when fishermen arrive back with their catches, and traders crowd the area. In addition to the Castle of St George Elmina boasts another – the smaller Fort St Jago, situated on top of a hill as a protective measure against the castle being bombarded from above. There are also numerous animistic shrines throughout the town built by Posuban societies to protect the fishermen.

Day 14: Kakum National Park 

A few kilometres north of the coast, in the middle of a rainforest, we will discover the Kakum National Park. This park gives you a great opportunity to observe the forest from above as Kakum has a canopy walk hung high up in the trees. The Kakum canopy walkway is the longest and highest rope bridge in the world. Walking between 120 to 150 feet above the ground, we will get an incredible view over the rain forest. At the border of the forest we find the International Stingless Bee Project, and learn about their importance to our ecosystem. After lunch we head back to the hotel for a leisurely afternoon. This evening enjoy traditional drumming from the locals. Overnight Lemon Beach Hotel or similar (BLD)

Day 15: Accra 22nd January

This morning we head to Accra (approx. 3 hours). On arrival we have a brief stop at Black Star Square which houses the independence monument and continue to Independence Square where we find the enclosed flame of African liberation, lit by Kwame Nkrumah in 1961, before heading to Jamestown, one of Accra’s poorest suburbs, yet steeped in history. Visit Fort James, and see the interesting Brazilian stone houses, built by free enslaved Africans who came over from Brazil after the abolition of the slave trade. We also visit the National Cultural Centre, Ghana’s largest arts and crafts market and the Artist Alliance Gallery on the beach front, showcasing traditional and contemporary art and artifacts from Ghana and neighbouring countries. From here we set off for the ‘fantasy coffins’ of Teshie Nungua. After a burial, a celebration follows and it is believed that the departed move on to another world and the decorated coffins may represent the occupation of the deceased, or something that was important to them, ranging from cars and cigarette packets to crocodiles and beer bottles! During our visit we have the opportunity to meet these infamous coffin makers. Overnight La Villa Boutique Hotel or similar (BLD)

Accra 

Ghana’s capital is one of Africa’s biggest cities, with the inevitable traffic, noise and mayhem. Despite being a fast growing, lively city, the people are friendly and welcoming and maintain many aspects of their tribal African roots. The Kwame Nkrumah Mausoleum and memorial park is the resting place of the former president of Ghana. The old quarter of Jamestown is the heart of the old colonial town (British protected area) and was inhabited by the Ga people, who founded Accra in the 16th century. There are numerous bustling markets to explore where you can discover everything from food, clothing and household goods to traditional crafts. There is even an area for the fabrication of special coffins that take the forms of fish, fruit, animals, or your favourite car, traditionally based on the occupation of the deceased, but customisable upon prior request.

Day 16: Accra Departure

This morning head to the Kwame Nkrumah National Park, the final resting place of Ghana’s founder and visit the nearby local market, good for some last-minute souvenirs. After a final meal together, you will be transferred to Accra airport for your departure flight (BL)