From War Scars to Architectural Wonders: A Four-Day Journey Through Bosnia & Herzegovina
Introduction
After a planned trip to Albania fell through, I seized the opportunity to travel to Bosnia & Herzegovina. For me, the country only evoked images of the horrors of the past, but I was eager to explore what this small former Yugoslav nation had to offer during a brief four-night stay.
Day 1: Arrival in Sarajevo
I arrived in sunny Sarajevo late in the afternoon, warmly greeted by my hosts who drove me to the locally-owned Harmony Hotel. This charming accommodation, perched on a hill, boasts fantastic city views. Though the walk from the old town back to the hotel is a bit strenuous, taxis are readily available for around 5 euros.
After settling in, I took a leisurely stroll down to the river, walking along the tree-lined boulevard into the historic part of the city. The riverbanks were dotted with ducks, and the leaves glowed with autumn hues. As I looked up at the old communist-era apartment blocks, I couldn’t help but notice the extensive shell and bullet damage—remnants of the Bosnian war from the 90s.
I was fortunate to arrive in the old town during the golden hour, when the city’s buildings glowed under the setting sun. As darkness fell, the atmosphere came alive. The charming streets buzzed with life as people dined al fresco, enjoying the warm weather. The call to prayer echoed from minarets, standing side by side with Orthodox and Catholic churches—a reminder of the country’s diverse and intertwined history.
I savored a meal of succulent grilled meat, fresh bread, and salad before returning to the hotel, feeling content and already captivated by Sarajevo’s charm.
Day 2: Exploring Mostar
Rising early, I took a taxi to the train station to catch the 07:15 service to Mostar. The two-hour journey offered superb mountain views and rivers below, all from the comfort of a modern Talgo train. The return journey cost just 10 euros—a bargain!
In Mostar, I enjoyed an easy walk from the station to the old town. Renowned for its beauty, Mostar’s iconic old bridge, which was destroyed during the war but now beautifully rebuilt, spans the crystal-clear waters of the Neretva River. The town’s narrow alleys and the charming Crooked Bridge are a delight to explore. Despite evidence of conflict, Mostar’s allure remains. I recommend visiting early to avoid the crowds.
After a day of exploration, I returned to Sarajevo, enjoying the sun’s late afternoon glow on the mountains.
Day 3: Uncovering Sarajevo’s History
The morning greeted me with another sunny autumn day. After a hearty breakfast at the Harmony Hotel, I met my local guide for a four-hour tour around Sarajevo. The guide shared insights into the city’s tumultuous history, especially the horrors of the Bosnian war and the siege of Sarajevo in the 90s.
My guide, who was 14 during the war, recounted daily shellings and the challenges of living underground for four years. The city’s resilience is evident in its memorials, like the Bread Line and Markale Market massacre sites. The latter, where a shell killed 66 people, led to NATO intervention and the eventual end of the war.
We also visited the Tunnel of Hope, a vital passage for locals during the siege, and the abandoned bobsleigh track from the 1984 Winter Olympics. It was surreal to see such a site, once a symbol of international celebration, now a ghostly relic of the past.
Day 4: Architecture, Food, and Culture
On my final day, I ventured into the hills surrounding Sarajevo. The Yellow Fortress offers stunning views of the city, especially at sunset. Nearby, the cozy Kamarija Cafe serves delicious Bosnian coffee with unbeatable views.
Sarajevo’s architectural beauty is astonishing. Despite the war damage, the city’s Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian, Moorish, and Slavic influences shine through. Many buildings, while scarred, were spared total destruction due to the lack of aerial bombing, allowing for restoration and repair efforts post-war.
Bosnia’s culinary scene is another highlight. From sticky baklava to grilled meats and fresh bread, the city offers endless temptations. I also tried a local wine made from the Blatina grape, which was surprisingly delightful.
Bosnia is also excellent value for money. While cash is preferred in smaller shops, prices are generally much lower than in other European countries. Coffee lovers, in particular, will be thrilled; the city is filled with coffee shops, each offering the unique Bosnian brewing style.
Conclusion
Bosnia & Herzegovina, and specifically Sarajevo and Mostar, left a lasting impression on me. A quick two-hour flight from London transports travelers into a rich cultural and historical tapestry. The city is a mix of emotions; you’ll be moved by its tragic history but inspired by its resilience and spirit.
Sarajevo is a living testimony to humanity’s capacity for both destruction and renewal. The city’s unique mix of architecture, culture, and poignant history makes it a must-visit for any traveler. I urge anyone seeking a meaningful and enriching experience to explore this remarkable destination.
About the Author
Mark Huggins is a tailor-made specialist for Undiscovered Destinations. He traveled to Sarajevo and Mostar in Bosnia & Herzegovina in early October 2024.