We began our journey at the superbly located Renion City Hotel in Almaty, which offered comfortable, clean, and well-appointed rooms, a great breakfast, and a lovely terrace.
Almaty is an exceptionally easy city to explore on foot, thanks to its orderly grid system. Our first stop was the vibrant Green Bazaar, a large indoor food market enveloped by a labyrinth of bustling clothing alleyways. It is incredibly authentic and atmospheric. I highly recommend climbing the stairs to the upper balcony to look down on the captivating hustle and bustle of local vendors and buyers.
Green Spaces and Panoramic Vistas
Almaty boasts an abundance of pleasant green spaces, manicured parks, and leafy boulevards perfect for a leisurely stroll. Particularly striking is the 28 Panfilov Guardsmen Park, home to the magnificent Ascension Cathedral. This superb wooden masterpiece dates back to the early 1900s and stands as a brilliant centrepiece. Central Park is also well worth a wander, showcasing spectacular flower beds, fountains, and multi-generational local families enjoying the grounds, especially on weekends.
To cap off a day of urban exploration, join the locals for a short, scenic cable car ride up Kok Tobe Hill to witness spectacular sunset vistas over the sprawling city.
A Culinary and Cultural Melting Pot
Almaty features a thriving café and restaurant scene that caters to all budgets and palates. The local cuisine beautifully reflects influences from across Kazakhstan, the wider Central Asia region, and the Caucasus, while European options are also widely available. Local food staples consist of fresh salads, hearty soups, handmade noodles, aromatic rice dishes, and diverse meats—including traditional horsemeat. For those with a sweet tooth, a visit to the factory shop of the beloved, high-quality Rakhat chocolate brand is an absolute delight.
Into the Majestic Tian Shan Mountains
The spectacular Tian Shan mountains rise dramatically behind the city, reaching towering heights of over 4,000 metres. On a clear day, it is well worth boarding the gondola near the city centre. Climbing in three distinct sections, the ride takes you up to the Shymbulak ski station at an altitude of 3,200 metres. Here, you can breathe in the pristine mountain air and enjoy a coffee while overlooking jagged, snow-clad alpine peaks.
The Untamed Wilderness of Altyn-Emel
A three- to four-hour drive from the city brings you to Altyn-Emel National Park, an expansive reserve of remarkable Kazakh landscapes and raw nature. The towering Singing Dune, which rises roughly 150 metres above the desert plain, is a must-climb as the sun begins to dip. Sitting at the summit to witness the ever-changing light and shifting colours across the vast horizon is a magnificent sight to behold. Under perfect wind conditions, the dune even emits a distinct, low humming sound as you descend.
A venture deeper into the park to the Katutau and Aktau Mountains will leave landscape lovers spellbound. Here, a kaleidoscope of vividly coloured rock formations rises abruptly from the plain. The relatively easy hiking trails allow you to observe the dramatic interplay of light against the multi-hued geological layers.
While taking in the scenery, keep a sharp eye out for local wildlife. Rare wild desert horses (Przewalski's horses), kulans, antelopes, jackals, desert foxes, and even elusive wolves roam these open spaces. As with any true wilderness, sightings are left to chance. To fully appreciate Altyn-Emel, we opt to stay in comfortable local guesthouses serving traditional home-cooked dishes—a far more palatable and relaxed option than an arduous, rushed day trip from Almaty.
Charyn Canyon and the Earth's Sculptures
Leaving Altyn-Emel, we headed toward the canyonlands. Charyn Canyon is a few hours' drive away but absolutely worth the journey. Along the route, your eyes will be drawn across vast plains resting beneath massive skies scattered with cotton-candy clouds.
From the canyon's main viewpoint, you descend into a dramatic scene that looks straight out of a classic Wild West film. Incredibly sculpted red sandstone chimneys tower above you, some balancing impossibly, even perilously, over the canyon floor. It is a deeply rewarding downhill stroll along the gorge path to reach the rushing Charyn River—a fantastic spot to pause for lunch overlooking the river rapids.
From the riverbank, old Soviet-style jeeps are on hand to chug you comfortably back up to the visitor centre. Alternatively, if your energy levels are high and time permits, you can retrace your steps on foot to experience the canyon's scale from a completely reverse perspective. Not far from here lies Black Canyon, which is well worth a brief stop for its sheer, vertiginous viewpoints dropping into a sleek gorge against the sunlit steppe beyond.
Alpine Lakes and Mountain Villages
From the canyons, we journeyed back into the mountains for a complete change of atmosphere. Staying at a comfortable guesthouse in the small foothill village of Saty offers excellent access to pristine alpine waters and superb hiking.
Kaindy Lake is accessible via a steady 30-minute uphill walk from the car park, crossing over gushing mountain streams. You ultimately emerge at a remarkable, picture-perfect alpine lake surrounded by verdant forests and framed by soaring cliffs. What makes Kaindy truly extraordinary is the forest of ghostly, skeletal spruce trees rising directly from the turquoise water—the surreal result of a powerful earthquake in the early 20th century. It genuinely has to be seen to be believed, and several panoramic viewpoints around the shore offer time to soak in this inspiring scene.
A short distance away lies Kolsai Lake, another superb alpine body of water. A charming lakeside boardwalk allows you to enjoy the shifting reflections of the dense pine trees on the glassy water. Kolsai is well-equipped with visitor facilities, making it easy to enjoy a coffee and a snack while drinking in the glorious views. For those looking for a more active adventure, this lower lake is just the first of three interconnected bodies of water that form part of a longer, spectacularly beautiful mountain trek. Horse riding is also an option to explore this pristine area.
Further Adventures Await
From these inspiring lakes, it is a scenic four-hour journey back to Almaty. If you roll back into the city toward sunset, look to your left to admire the pink twilight hue illuminating Pik Talgar, the highest peak visible in the local range, looming proudly at 4,979 metres above Almaty.
Almaty serves as the perfect springboard for further exploration. From here, you might catch the overnight train to Shymkent and the historic Turkistan region, or take a short domestic flight north to the capital, Astana, which blends futuristic cityscapes with national parks. For those looking to venture even further off the beaten track, consider a journey across the vast, empty plains of Western Kazakhstan toward the Aral Sea, or witness a rocket launch at the historic Baikonur Cosmodrome.
Kazakhstan is a vast world of untamed landscapes ripe for genuine exploration. We invite you to join us on our next spectacular journey.
